Saturday, January 27, 2007

From the "end of the first week of the new life" dept.

Written: Saturday, Jan 27, 2007

***** New pictures on Flickr. Click here or link on RIGHT --> ****

Seven days ago I arrived in Takoradi knowing very little.

I did not know where I would live. I did not know my roommate. I did not know anything about my workplace.

Have things changed!

I've mentioned SKYY TV in previous posts. It's a very friendly place with a newsroom atmosphere could best be described as "feisty".

I've had the chance to speak with most of the reporters and go out on shoots with several of them. They are: Asamoah, George, Amofa, Jojo, Christian, Adu, Patricial Ange, Ebenezer, Saeed, Shirley and, of course, my roommate Kweku.

On Friday, I travelled with Asamoah and George on three stories. Asamoah was reporting on the plight of children hawkers. Hawkers stand at busy intersections and sell everything you can imagine. From newspapers to gum and water to handbags.

Far from being a hassle (other than slowing down traffic), it's like a drive through shopping mall. Need toilet paper on the way home? Not a problem. Soap? Here you go. A snack? What would you like?

But during the day you notice something interesting: many of the hawkers, who carry their goods atop their heads, are children. Asamoah wanted to find out why these kids are on the street instead of the classroom. The short answer: their families need the income. In some cases, it's because of real poverty. In others, it's because the parents suffer financial problems due to booze or gambling problems. I think this subject could be my first documentary.

Christian was working on two stories. One about the price of water and another about the terrible condition of the roads in some parts of town. We spent much of the day driving around Takoradi and shooting pictures of bad roads. It was a good chance to see more of the metropolis.

Many of the industrial areas are, well, industrial. There is a huge section where all the car repair shops are. Car parts are piled everywhere and most operate from clapboard stalls. Some, to my surprise, have children working in them. We tried to interview one boy, but his boss shooed us away.

In speaking with my other JHR colleagues, it appears that I am the only one who immediately jumped into work this week. I had originally intended to spend the first week getting used to my new surroundings, but everyone is so eager that I felt obligated to jump right in.
That was a good decision as I have now established relationships with a couple of the reporters.

On Sunday, Christian is going to take me to various historic areas along the coast (I've still not seen the water even though I live in a port city!). I'll be armed with the "good" camera and plan to start taking lots of pictures. Getting them online continues to be a challenge.

I've connected with Asamoah, who is very young -- maybe 18 -- but VERY bright. We've worked on a couple of stories and he is incredibly eager. He gets a lot of static from others, but brushes it all aside.

*** Road Trip ***

Ghana turns 50 on March 6th. I believe it is the first country in West Africa to mark 50 years of independence following colonial rule. This is a VERY big deal, and the preparations are in full swing.

Former-UN secretary-general Kofi Annan returned home to Ghana last week. He is highly respected here, and his arrival and the speeches that followed were carried live across the nation.

One of the golden jubilee events is the "Freedom Flame". For two weeks prior to the big anniversary, a flame will be carried across the nation to symbolize the important milestone. Think Olympic flame.

Asamoah asked me if I would like to join him in covering the flame as it makes its way to every corner of Ghana. "Of course," I told him.

Not only will it be a great experience and a chance to see the country, it is also a great deal. The government is providing transport, accommodation, and meals for journalists during the event. And any additional expenses should be covered by my organization.

I will field produce and shoot for Asamoah and we'll be expected to file stories daily. I'll have to use my own video camera, however.

When I was in Toronto, I decided at the last minute to buy a video camera. I went low-end, but now wish I had purchased something a little more robust. Also, my camera operates on a different broadcast standard than local television, meaning that all the video will require conversion. Not a big deal, as this can be done back at SKYY, but it could impact the turn around.

I would think seriously about buying another camera here, but I a) don't want to spend the money and b) don't want to be stuck with a non-North American camera. Still, it would be nice to have a decent camera. My worry is that my $350 handicam won't stand up to the wear and tear.

And the logistics of editing and filing have to be worked out.

Following the Freedom Flame could make for a great radio documentary for NPR, CBC or the BBC. However, because the route ends in Accra for the day of the anniversary, it is time sensitive. And there is no way to edit something like that until getting back to Takoradi. I'll have to put on my thinking cap for that one.

*** Speaking Fanti ***

Everyone here speaks Fanti, the local traditional language. Most conversations switch back and forth between English and Fanti -- making it very difficult to follow. As much as my colleagues try to teach me words, I find that they're not sticking in my brain.

I think it is incredibly important and a show of respect to learn at least a few phrases. It might also come in handy in bargaining with taxi drivers, who all seem to try and squeeze as many Cedis out of their passengers as possible. Being an obruni (white person) doesn't help. I automatically pay higher rates than the locals.

It is impossible for me to blend in. I am the only non-black at SKYY and one of a handful of white people in town. I did see an Asian person yesterday, however.
This isn't a problem, and I never feel weird about it -- but sometimes I do realize that I am in a very small minority. It doesn't help that the Europeans didn't really have the best interests of local people in mind when they colonized the area.
A moment occurred this morning when I realized how rare I am.

One of our neighbours stopped by to borrow some water from our large back-up water tank. She had a baby strapped to her back, and a young boy in tow. I popped outside for a moment, and the little boy saw me. I waved and went back inside.

A few minutes later, I went back outside and the mother told me that the little boy, who was now on the other side of our gated property, wanted to see me.
She went to fetch him and when she returned, the little boy saw me and freaked. He burst into tears and ran down the road.

This may take some getting used to.

*** I want my SKYY TV ***

SKYY is a unique operation. It broadcasts four separate free-to-air signals. SKYY One is the main channel and features a mix of local programs (including the morning show Agoo!), news and movies that are selected by Ben, the exceedingly outgoing master control operator.

The other three channels are rebroadcasts of South African channels (like E, an English station from Cape Town). SKYY Four rebroadcasts different foreign feeds: sometimes CNN International, occasionally BBC World, and often, live football matches from the UK.

There is a catch, however. You need a special antenna and decoder box to receive the extra SKYY channels. There are no monthly fees, just the initial equipment purchase.
We're supposed to have our antenna and box installed today. Once we have that, we'll have about eight different stations to choose from. And I'll finally be able to watch SKYY at home. I have a TV in my room, but there is no aerial and I can't receive anything. As I've said before, thank God for BBC World Service!

*** The long and winding road ***

I find I am getting more exercise than I did living in Vancouver. I have to walk for almost everything, including catching a taxi or tro-tro (mini-bus) to town.

It takes about 15 minutes to walk from home, down the dusty road, to the main highway. SKYY is only a short stroll away, but is perched on a hill, meaning the last part of the walk is a sweat inducing hill climb.

Sometimes I am able to get dropped off at home, but generally I do the walk 4-6 times daily. Along the way there are a couple of little shops. One for bread, one for household stuff, and, my favourite, the shop that sells beer.

I'm drinking treated tap water, as it is more convenient and cheaper than buying bottled water. I've not yet found a source of the big bottles of treated water. So, I fill a (new, clean) bucket with tap water and mix in some treatment liquid I purchased in Vancouver. This works well, and I have yet to feel sick. But I am worried about running out of treatment solution.

It is so hot that I drink a lot of water -- and, consequently, a lot of beer as it is also safe to drink, cheaper than water, and much more refreshing.

However, water doesn't make you fat, and I realize that if I am going to lose a few kilos the way to do it is not by drinking beer.

Like the promise to myself to eat only local food (so far, so good), I also intend to limit my beer intake to no more than one bottle per day on weekdays. If I go out on a Friday or Saturday night, then I will take a few more.

*** The Accident ***

Last Thursday I was shopping in Market Circle and fighting with the internet. It was after sunset when I finally took a taxi home. After settling on a price (about $2), we headed towards SKYY. I told the driver to make a left turn just prior to SKYY.

There is a car repair shop there called Mapees. Everyone knows the corner.

As we approached, the driver was confused as to whether he should turn at Mapees or SKYY. I said Mapees as just as he passed the turnoff. As he slowed, and pulled onto the shoulder to make a u-turn, there was a loud bang.

I looked out my window to see the driver of a motor scooter flying into the ditch as his scooter crashed to the ground. This was not good.

We stopped and seconds later the pissed-off scooter driver knocked on my window and began screaming at the taxi driver. This was all in Fanti, so I was unable to understand what was said. However, I think the cabbie tried to blame me, while the other guy blamed the cabbie.

The scooter was slightly damaged but the driver appeared OK judging by his ability to argue. I slipped the cabbie his fare and wandered off into the night as they continued to argue.

I bought four beer at the beer shop on the way home.

*** Saturday Events ***

It is early Saturday morning as I write this. Unlike yesterday, there was water to take a shower. I find there is no rhyme or reason to the water outages, but I'm always prepared with back up buckets for showering and toilet flushing.

Gloria (our live-in housekeeper/cook) was up at 6 doing laundry. It is so nice not to have do deal with chores, although I do want to learn how to cook some of the local dishes over the next few weeks.

Kweku had to run off to read the 9 a.m. news, while I'm enjoying some peace and quiet.

We're heading into town this afternoon to visit the internet cafe (a new one, I hope), as well as to pick up some stuff for the house.

At 4 p.m. we're going back to the same school I visited in Sekondi when I arrived a week ago. I've been asked to shoot pictures of the kids who are rehearsing their musical performance. These are the kids I wrote about last week who are travelling to Plymouth, England this summer. I hope to have some stills and video up next week, technology willing.

Tonight will be another quiet one, I expect. I find that I am completely knackered by the end of the day. Perhaps it's the heat. Or maybe that it's been such a crazy stretch these last few weeks/months. I certainly sleep well and haven't heard the call to prayer for several days.

As mentioned earlier I am travelling along the coast tomorrow. And then back to work on Monday. There is no weekend television news, thankfully.

Next weekend I will head to the Green Turtle Lodge (which I think will become my Ghanaian Caye Caulker) for two days of R&R.

*** The New Reality ***

It's funny how something so different like living in Africa has just become normal. The water and power outages don't bother me (I think we lose power tonight) and although I have much to learn, I feel I am adjusting with little difficulty.

I think I am lucky in that my housing was set up for me and that I am working with a decent group of people. It's been very easy to transition from the old life to the new.

There are many things I miss about home: the people, the sushi, the cool nights, broadband internet, working weekend days at CTV and good coffee. And yes, even Steve Hughes. Heh heh!

But I feel blessed to be able to have this experience, meet so many new people, and get to tell stories again.

At this point I'm not sure what I will do when I return. My fear is returning to exactly the same life as I left. Life in Vancouver is great, surrounded by many great friends. But career-wise things were getting stale. Perhaps this adventure will open up new avenues that I can't yet see.

And with that, I will close. Check flickr for photos. And return here often!
Cheers!

2 comments:

Barbra said...

Be careful, Doogie, beer dehydrates ya!

Barbra said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.