From the "Short and Sweet" Dept.

One of the things I haven't written much about is daily life in San Pedro.  So, in what will become a continuing series, I'll cover some of the day-to-day experiences of living in Guatemala.

A very small part of Lake Atitlan

San Pedro la Laguna is located on Lake Atitlan, one of the most beautiful places on the planet.  The lake is a mountain-top caldera surrounded by volcanos.  Despite San Pedro's elevation - 5,000 feet - it never gets too cold.  About 17,000 people live here and most are of Maya descent.  There are three Maya languages spoken around the lake.  Most indigenous people in San Pedro speak Tz'utujil and Spanish.  There is very little English spoken outside of the ex-pat and tourist communities.  Lake Atitlan itself is located in the southwestern part of the country with the Pacific ocean a few hours away by bus. Volcan San Pedro towers over the town and is, hopefully, dormant.

Weather:  Winter and spring are dry.  It seems it's always sunny.  Cool nights (mid-teens) and warm days (high-20s).  It gets warmer during the day as we get closer to summer. The summer and fall are wet.  The temperatures are warmer, but it rains every afternoon.  Last year it rained so much that there were a number of mudslides around the lake. This time of year is perfect - cool nights, warm days, no rain.  It's like groundhog day.

Banking:  There are two bank machines connected to the outside world.  There is now a third, but it is for local bank customers only.  You can take out 2000 quetzales per transaction.  That's about $250 at the official exchange rate of about $1-Q8.  Money is usually available, but sometimes there is a run on the weekend.  Luckily, I am able to run tabs at most businesses if I run out of cash.

Cost of Living:  I spend about $1000 a month.  That is actually high for living here, but not outrageous.  I am living in a hotel that costs about $190 a month.  The rest goes to eating out 2-3 times a day, a few groceries, coffee, laundry and general entertainment (beer).  If I had a kitchen, I could likely reduce my expenses by 30% if not more.  Last night I spent about Q150 ($18.75) at a local pub.  I was there for many hours using their internet and chewing the fat.  I had 2 imported Guinnesses, a couple of local beers and a plate of nigiri sushi.  My tab also included a 10% propina (tip).

In San Pedro you can eat cheaply (3 for 10Q tacos) or expensively (white table cloth dinner with wine $10). But at the end of the day, nothing is really expensive at all.

More to come...

from the "getting down to business" dept.

Today marks the beginning of my second week of not having to go into the office. And, somewhat oddly, it is also Labour Day.

Since arriving in Vancouver Friday, I have been poking away at things. Getting my papers in order for the upcoming tax season (talk about getting an early start!), sorting through the detritus of my life that resides in a distant storage unit, and buying small things to make living abroad easier (velcro!).

This week will see the white-boarding of the next year. Formulating a game plan, if you will. Crossing out distractions and focusing on a single goal: Income. It's going to be a bumpy ride, but thankfully, a slow one.

In just under 3 weeks, I'll head south to San Cristobal, Mexico, armed with firm goals and a financial buffer. Then the hard work begins.

As I prepare to return to the coffeelands, I am glued to the computer, following the tragic news coming out of Guatemala. Rain, landslides, death. It's not pretty and there seems to be no end in sight.

My friends who live around Lake Atitlan have an additional worry: The lake is rising. Fast. Businesses along the shore are threatened and there is little they can do to hold back the water. If the rains don't let up soon, the towns and villages that ring the lake could be in serious trouble.

While it is wet in San Cristobal and Chiapas state, they don't seem to be suffering the same problems as Guatemala. This is likely due to better infrastructure.

The landslides in Guatemala mean that travelling on almost any highway is now very dangerous. The earth is saturated and very unstable. The latest death toll is estimated at 50. Not good.

This also means that visiting San Pedro likely won't happen for a while. If whole hillsides keep collapsing on the main roads, there will be no way to drive down. And there is no direct air service other than a circuitous route involving long bus rides and flights through neighbouring counties.

So in the interim, I have toes and fingers crossed for the people of Guatemala. And I continue ticking off items on my "to do" list.

And so it goes...