Back in Mexico

It was my second attempt in as many days to travel to Mexico.  My Guatemalan visa was fast running out, and I was required to leave the country for three days -- and then re-enter -- in order to get a new 90 day visa.

The first attempt failed after the main Central American highway was blocked due to either construction or protests or new electrical transmission lines.  It could have been all three.  And, unfortunately, I didn't learn of the road closure until after I woke up at 4am, took a 6am boat across Lake Atitlan and hopped on the shuttle bus only to be told that we weren't going anywhere.

Take two was yesterday (Feb 25, 2011).  Same routine:  Up at 4.  Boat across the lake.  Hop onto shuttle bus.  And we (I'm travelling with Steve, a fellow San Pedro ex-pat) were off!

The road up to the Mexican border was nice.  Just two years ago re-construction of the PanAmerican highway was nearly completed.  Most of the CA-1 from Guatemala City to the Mexican border at La Mesia is four-lane. Or, at least it was, until last year's heavy rains caused numerous landslides that wiped out much of the work.  However, repairs are ongoing and they've made really good progress.  Just in time for this year's rainy season.

The shuttle from Panajachel, Guatemala to Comitan, Mexico cost $25.  For this you get squished in a tiny seat, stuck between a traveller who has forgotten her brains and one that has forgotten to bathe.  Ah, travel!  The drive to the border is quite beautiful.  Lots of river valleys and mountains to gawk at.

At the border things got crazy.  We had to switch from a Guatemalan shuttle to a Mexican one.   First, though: Guatemalan immigration.  There were a few dozen people trying to get stamped in or out of Guatemala -- and just three guys working behind the desk.  Only one appeared to be doing anything.

That finally done, we walked into Mexico and boarded a new shuttle bus.  The girl that had forgotten her brains still hadn't found them.  She thought it a good idea to stand in the middle of the aisle on the shuttle so no one could get by.  Duh.

Eventually we were headed up the road to Mexican immigration -- about 4 km from the border.  The Mexican office was actually worse than the Guatemalan one: Just one guy was working.  And before you could get an entry stamp you had to fill out a form that you had to get from that one immigration official who was busy examining passports and stamping them.  Why they couldn't leave a pile of forms for people to grab is one of the great mysteries of the ages.  T-I-M:  This Is Mexico.

Back on the shuttle we continued our journey to Comitan.  There were numerous military checkpoints and accidents to keep us entertained.  Then it started to rain.

About an hour later we arrived in Comitan and tried to walk, in the rain, to the hotel.  After getting soaked we  gabbed a taxi (20 pesos/$1.66) to the hotel.  We're staying at the Hotel Eugenia (on Calle. 1 Ne. Pte. 22 -- just a few blocks from the central park).  For 220 pesos ($18) you get a clean, comfortable room with TV and wi-fi.  The shower is amazing:  Tons of pressure and super hot water.

After checking into the hotel we set off to find a bank machine and get even wetter.  That done, we sloshed into a coffee shop on the central park and had some damn fine Joe.  This was followed by a visit to a grocery store which, conveniently, had a restaurant inside.  I dropped about $15 on food that doesn't need to be refrigerated, water and a bottle of wine.  Steve had chicken for dinner ($2) and I had a couple of slices of mediocre pizza ($2).

It was then back to the hotel for a nice long sleep.

And today's adventure?  Walmart.

More to come!

An epiphany for Christmas

After nearly a month back in San Pedro la Laguna, Guatemala, it has become apparent that I belong here and not in Mexico.  The reasons for this are many, but the main ones are:  warmth, friends and comfort. 

There is nothing wrong with San Cristobal, but it seems that I'd be better off visiting it -- rather than living there.

Apologies for the lack of posts over the past few weeks.  It's been busy (!) and I've been slack.  But I have a nice collection of photos and will post them soon.  I'll write more too.

Hope you're having a fab holiday...

Cheers!

Going Abroad

 

San Pedro Redux

I've been in San Cristobal for just over two months -- and it's been (and is) great.  But after a long, tough week, I've decided that I need a break.

Early Sunday morning I'll board a shuttle.  Eight hours later I should arrive in San Pedro la Laguna, Guatemala.  The plan is to recharge my batteries, swim and relax.  I'll head back to San Cristobal in about a week.

It'll be fun going back to San Pedro after a year away...  I can't wait!

Cheers!

Why, Hello There

You're probably wondering why I haven't written much lately.  Simple:  I've been writing.

November is National Novel Writing Month, and I've decided to take up the challenge:  Write a 50,000 word first draft -- in 30 days.  I did it last year and, despite having just moved to Edmonton, I managed to complete the task.  And I was left with something that might become something decent, if I edit it. 

This time around, it's much more difficult -- for a lot of reasons.  Mostly, I'm creating everything from scratch -- characters, location, plot, dialogue.  Last year, I based my story and characters on the year I spent in Guatemala.  This time, I'm not so lucky. 

As I write this, I'm more than half-way.  30,000 words down.  20,000 to go.  I'll be glad when it's finished.

At the same time, I've been working on building websites and working as a freelance SEO guru -- all while adjusting to this new life in Southern Mexico.

All-in-all, the first six weeks have been good, but I find it a bit of a quiet life.  There isn't a big ex-pat community here and not speaking much Spanish doesn't help.  So I spend most days hunched over my laptop, save the hour or so a day I go walking.

I used to wonder what could possibly be wrong with living in San Cristobal.  Now I know the answer:  It's lonely.

However, Guatemala is less than a day down the road. I think I'll try and catch a ride back to Lake Atitlan before the end of the month.  Belize is also close by, but requires some long bus rides to get there.  Lots of time for that. 

And then there's Canada.  My quest for a reasonably priced ticket to the land of snow for Christmas is not going very well.  The hunt continues.

And so it goes...

This is not The View walk off

So you think watching Joy Behar and Whoopi Goldberg walking off the set of The View because Bill O'Reilly is a dork is entertainment?

Ha!

In the real world, a neighbour's chicken breached our compound. And the hilarity ensued.



Just another day in Mexico.

from the "early impressions of San Cristobal" dept.

One of San Cristobal's Walking Streets (Andadors)

I've been in San Cristobal for a few days now and I must say I'm very impressed. From the welcoming gift of local coffee and a friendship bracelet from the governor of Chiapas to the positive vibe that fills the streets, it's not at all what I expected.

Welcoming Gifts!

And it's certainly not what you see on the evening news. No drug wars here.

Sure, there are the aural reminders that I'm in Mexico: Barking dogs, crowing roosters and ringing church bells (It's 7:30am!) -- but even they have a certain calmness to them.

My year in San Pedro la Laguna, Guatemala was chaotic in comparison.

Over the past few days I've been strolling around town. There are two main walking streets (andadors) that form a T in the heart of the city. Locals and tourists saunter up and down, past wine bars, restaurants and shoppes. It's all here, yet none of it is in your face.

I feel like I've discovered a secret place.

Last night, Kelly, Dennis and I sat outside at a little wine bar and watched the world go by. A few Mayan street sellers (mostly women and children) stopped at our table to offer us various trinkets and whatnot. But a polite "no, gracias" was usually more than enough to send them on their way. Again: Calm.

Dennis takes a shot from his perch at the Wine Bar

After a few glasses of a cheap but tasty Sirah, we wandered over to a pizza joint to pick up a couple of pies to eat back at the house. The pizzas didn't disappoint: thin crust, cooked to perfection and loaded with my favourite toppings: Anchovies and olives. Yummy, nums.

We enjoyed a bit more wine and then called it a night.

It's been an eye-opening experience. I've only been here two full days and yet I feel like I've been here for months. That's how comfortable and pleasant San Cristobal is. Of course, living with Dennis and Kelly has helped a great deal.

As I write this I'm beginning my third full day. There isn't much on the schedule. A walk. Some wine. Enjoying the here and now.

This will change a little bit next week when I dive into my internet work. I've got five days to build the first website that I hope will generate a trickle of income.

But that's Monday. Until then, I'll be content to simply enjoy San Cristobal's charms.

Cheers

from the "a place called Chiapas" dept.

San Cristobal's main cathedral

After a delay of about a year, I'm now back where I should be: The tropics. But in a new place: San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico.

And damn, it feels good.

Wednesday was one long day. It started at 3:30am in Cochrane, Alberta. After driving to Calgary's airport, then flying to Houston, then flying to Tuxtla Gutierrez, then driving to San Cristobal, I arrived at my new home.

As it was dark, I didn't see much. Dennis and Kelly were waiting for me and we celebrated new beginnings with two bottles of cheap (but tasty) wine. I went to bed at 2am - almost 22.5 hours after the day began.

This morning I woke up to the sounds of roosters and church bells. Tired, I hung out at the house for a while. Then Dennis, Kelly, Lucy the Dog and I went for a stroll around town. We stopped for lemonade and watched the world go by.

Home Sweet Home

The weather is nice: cool and humid. And the vibe in town is very positive. I think I'm going to enjoy it here.

I'll take some pictures over the coming days. But for now, I'm just adjusting to a new life in a new country and an elevation of 7000 feet.

And away we go!

from the "on the road again" dept.

4am.

Why am I up so early? Because I am making a second attempt to fly to Chiapas, Mexico in a few hours. Let's hope it actually happens this time.

UPDATE (1:14pm central - Sept 29);

Now in Houston for a 6 hour layover. Boring.

More soon.

Cheers!

Doug

from the "hold your horses" dept.

Promises, promises.

I'm not in Mexico. Yet.

Long story short: I was unable to fly out of Calgary yesterday due to mechanical problems with the aircraft. This resulted in me missing my connection - the twice a week flight from Houston to Tuxtla Gutierrez, Mexico. The next opportunity is Wednesday, Sept. 29.

So I'm back in Cochrane for 4 more days.

A longer story to come.

Cheers!

from the "where's waldo" dept.

Whew!

I never thought I'd say it but: I am tired of driving. As part of my Western Canada Goodbye Tour, I've put more than 7000km on my rental car (we like unlimited kms). I've been hither and yon, getting my life in order and visiting friends. It's been nice.

But I'm done. I don't think I can do another 10 hour/1000km drive for at least a year. Hell, last week I did something like 4000km. My arse hurts.

Now that I'm back in Cochrane, Alberta and there are less than 48 hours until my departure for Mexico, I have to attack my "to do" list with increased vigor. Not that there's much left to do. Mostly deciding what not to take and organizing the stuff staying in Dave's basement (thanks, Dave!).

There was snow earlier this week, and as I write this the air temperature is a frosty -2c. Time to join the rest of the ducks (patos) and head south for the winter. Although, that said, the skies are clear and the forecast high is a balmy 16c. Perhaps a quick trip to Banff?

In my head I have a plan for the coming months. But a lot of it depends on how things go. Interesting times, indeed.

Best get packing.

Cheers!

from the "a (small) change in plans" dept.

Thursday, August 26, eh? Crazy.

One day of work left. Two sleeps in Edmonton left. Crazy.

It's been a busy week: Getting stuff ready, looking after a house, garden, two cats and a dog, plus training my replacement.

Now that I've cycled up the big hill, it's time to coast down the other side. Work should be easy on Friday with cleaning out my stuff and submitting forms. I believe all my work related communication tools will expire at 5. Whatever.

Because it's rainy season in Southern Mexico, I've decided to delay my departure from Canada by nearly four weeks. No sense rushing down there for the cold and wet when the best time of year (fall) is almost upon our great Dominion.

I'm still beating a hasty retreat from Edmonton on Saturday. I'll hang in Calgary/Cochrane for a few days. And then I'll rent a (cheap) car and drive to Vancouver for a bit of work, a bit of play and a whole lot of organizing. If the planets align, I hope to spend a night or two in the Tofino area getting spiritual and eating my face off at Sobo (you had me at deep fried polenta).

I wish I could fit in some Galiano time, but my cottage of choice is booked solid. Boo.

No matter. A bit of transition is in order and I'll be heading south on Sept 25. A little poorer, but a lot more relaxed and ready to work for me and my future.

I can't wait!

from the "final countdown" dept.

My spirits are soaring as things wind down. Soon, the past 10 months in Alberta's capital city will be nothing more than a memory. More on that once I leave town.

As of this writing, there remain 10 more work days. And two weeks from today I will depart Edmonton for Calgary. And on Sept. 1, I will board the big bird for points south.

All fear has disappeared. But there remains much to be done: An apartment full of stuff that needs to be emptied and cleaned by tomorrow. Bank accounts that need to be set up. Mail that needs to be forwarded. Stuff that needs to be hauled.

Slowly, the list of things gets ticked off. And with each tick, the transition gets easier.

I've been looking at Google StreetView of my new 'hood. Looks great! Lots to explore. And no winter, although sources say that it does get chilly. No matter, the Pacific and Caribbean aren't too far away. As is my old home of San Pedro la Laguna, down in Guatemala.

And so it goes...

from the "it begins with a single step" dept.

I suppose the first step was resigning. Done. Waiting for the memo.

But reality set in: I had to do something. No waiting around. Time passes. Soon I will have no home. Soon I will have no job. Even if I wanted to maintain the status quo, the plans have been put in motion.

I've been trying to book the perfect escape. Wrestling with bus schedules, housing schedules, plane schedules and, all the while, trying to keep it cheap.

Today push came to shove. I clicked some buttons. And I now have an itinerary.

Friday Aug. 27 - Last day of work.
Saturday Aug. 28 - Bus to Calgary Airport ($90). Pick up rental car. ($156). Drive to Cochrane.
Sunday Aug. 29 - Tuesday Aug 31 - Last minute errands, relaxing, stressing and what-evering.
Wednesday Aug 1 - Return rental car. Fly to San Cristobal de las Casas, Mexico at 7am. ($488)

I'll arrive around 9:30pm -- and, with luck, to the smiling faces of Dennis & Kelly - whom I met last year in Guatemala. Housing secured. Work about to begin.

And that's that. Next: Getting rid of the last of my stuff and cleaning my apartment. I begin housesitting Friday. How strange to think that Edmonton will soon be a (bad) memory.

Let the future begin!