Polar Opposites

I've been in Pugwash, Nova Scotia for a little over a week now and I suppose it's time to write a few lines about the place that will be my home for the next six months.  And how living here is wa-a-a-a-y different than San Pedro la Laguna, Guatemala.

First:  A tale of the tape:

San Pedro

Population: 17,500

Languages:  Tz'utujil, Spanish, English

Ethnicity:  Maya, Gringo

Elevation:  5,000 ft

Climate:  Tropical

Bars and Restaurants:  Lots

Noise factors:  Roosters, dogs, churches, schools, tuktuks, reggaeton, construction 

Pugwash

Population:  750

Languages:  English

Ethnicity:  Scottish/Irish

Elevation:  Sea Level

Climate:  East Coast Canadian

Bars and Restaurants:  A couple

Noise factors:  Lawn mowers, birds, waves lapping

But other than the above:  It's really different.  San Pedro is an extremely social place.  On an average day in SP I would have breakfast with a few others at the pool.  Then I'd go to a series of bars and restaurants for the rest of the day -- shooting the sh*t and hanging out.  Unless I had work to do, in which case I would hide in the corner.

In Pugwash, there are just a couple of places to hang out.  I haven't yet, as I've had work to do and I've been busy stocking up on supplies and driving around the area while I have a car.  It goes back to the rental joint next week.  After that, it's all feet and bike tires.

In San Pedro the weather is fairly constant - at least over the winter months.  It is consistently warm and sunny during the day and cool with a slight breeze at night.

In Pugwash -  well, the seasons are really changing so the weather we're experiencing now won't be like the weather once summer starts.  For now, it's mostly cloudy, cool and wet.  There are occasional sunny breaks -- which are glorious.  Hopefully the summer will be sunny, warm and long.

San Pedro is crazy cheap.  My housing was less $187.50 a month and I spent roughly $20 a day in total.  Some days more, some days less.

Pugwash is also cheap.  My housing is about double what it was in San Pedro.  But I get a whole house, not just a room.  Three bedrooms in fact, plus a deck, washer, dryer, full kitchen, etc.  I've spent a ton of cash since arriving:  A new bike, car rental, office supplies.  But all that spending was necessary -- and has now come to an end.  Going forward:  I'll be spending money on food and wine with the occasional one-week car rental once a month.

Right now, Pugwash is exceedingly quiet.  I went for a stroll last night and saw only a few people and even fewer cars.  This will likely change when the tourists start flocking here in the summer.  I'm enjoying the peace, though.  It's nice to sleep without earplugs and not have to listen to corner stores blasting the world's worst music.

And so, the latest adventure has begun.  So far, so good.

Cheers!

from the "early impressions of San Cristobal" dept.

One of San Cristobal's Walking Streets (Andadors)

I've been in San Cristobal for a few days now and I must say I'm very impressed. From the welcoming gift of local coffee and a friendship bracelet from the governor of Chiapas to the positive vibe that fills the streets, it's not at all what I expected.

Welcoming Gifts!

And it's certainly not what you see on the evening news. No drug wars here.

Sure, there are the aural reminders that I'm in Mexico: Barking dogs, crowing roosters and ringing church bells (It's 7:30am!) -- but even they have a certain calmness to them.

My year in San Pedro la Laguna, Guatemala was chaotic in comparison.

Over the past few days I've been strolling around town. There are two main walking streets (andadors) that form a T in the heart of the city. Locals and tourists saunter up and down, past wine bars, restaurants and shoppes. It's all here, yet none of it is in your face.

I feel like I've discovered a secret place.

Last night, Kelly, Dennis and I sat outside at a little wine bar and watched the world go by. A few Mayan street sellers (mostly women and children) stopped at our table to offer us various trinkets and whatnot. But a polite "no, gracias" was usually more than enough to send them on their way. Again: Calm.

Dennis takes a shot from his perch at the Wine Bar

After a few glasses of a cheap but tasty Sirah, we wandered over to a pizza joint to pick up a couple of pies to eat back at the house. The pizzas didn't disappoint: thin crust, cooked to perfection and loaded with my favourite toppings: Anchovies and olives. Yummy, nums.

We enjoyed a bit more wine and then called it a night.

It's been an eye-opening experience. I've only been here two full days and yet I feel like I've been here for months. That's how comfortable and pleasant San Cristobal is. Of course, living with Dennis and Kelly has helped a great deal.

As I write this I'm beginning my third full day. There isn't much on the schedule. A walk. Some wine. Enjoying the here and now.

This will change a little bit next week when I dive into my internet work. I've got five days to build the first website that I hope will generate a trickle of income.

But that's Monday. Until then, I'll be content to simply enjoy San Cristobal's charms.

Cheers

from the "no fun city" dept.

Vancouver is a funny place. It has so much going for it, yet something is missing. You constantly hear it referred to as No Fun City. And there is some truth to that. Every time more than three people gather in a crowd, the city goes on high alert -- terrified that a(nother) riot will break out. Sigh.

But after living here for more than I decade, I can tell you what is missing: Soul. Seriously. This burg's got no soul. It's got a lot of great things (beaches, mountains, the Olympics) but no soul. You want proof? Check out Cleveland: Now there's a place with soul!



Cheers!