No Roosters!

There are no roosters in Cochrane.  This makes me happy.

On The Road Again

Another trip looms!  And a summer of fun awaits!!

I'm leaving San Pedro today.  I've been here since the end of November (after 2 months in Mexico) and I'll miss the tropical weather, nutty people and general hijinx.

This afternoon I'm off to Antigua Guatemala, the country's original capital located about 45 minutes from the big, bad current capital.  Easter celebrations are in full swing, so Antigua is going to be crazy. 

On Friday I fly to Calgary.  It's a midday flight and doesn't get in too late.  I've got a rental car waiting and I've been invited to dinner.  Nice.  Although the weather appears to be significantly cooler than it is here.  Dammit!

And then on May 4, it's off to Nova Scotia for the spring/summer/fall.  I'm really looking forward to that.

But have no fear, San Pedro.  I'll be back -- on Nov 8. 

Cheers!

From the "winding down" dept.

Less than two weeks remain before I leave San Pedro for Calgary.  And then Halifax.

I don't like this period, because it means the return of things I've been living happily without:

- Lists
- Schedules
- Paperwork
- Packing and storing
- And saying goodbye. 

But, I am excited.  Calgary will be a breath of fresh, cold air.  And the prospect of six months in Nova Scotia has me giggling like a school girl.

I've been writing some thoughts about my time here in San Pedro.  They'll be posted here soon.

And so I goes...

Roadspill Turns 8

Roadspill is 8.  Wow.  Time flies. 

Where the travel bug first bit: 

Halifax airport - Waiting to fly to Portugal - 1993

For the past eight years, interesting bits of my life (or censored versions of it) have been captured on this blog.  The ups, the downs, the challenge of make a living on my own while travelling this big planet.

Lately I haven't been writing posts as often as I should (blame Facebook), but I will make an effort to do so in the coming months.

Roadspill (spilling my guts, tales from the road) is the place where I announce the big things happening in my not-so-normal life:  Moving to Africa.  Moving to Guatemala.  Moving to Edmonton.  Moving back to Guatemala.  And today, another announcement:

I'm moving to Nova Scotia!

It's not permanent -- but it is long term.  Six months, in fact.  May 4-Nov 8.  After which, I'll likely move back to Guatemala for the winter.

This has always been my evil plan:  Live on the shores of Lake Atitlan, Guatemala for the winter and on one of Canada's coasts for the summer/fall.  I always thought a return to Canada would mean a return to the Pacific coast.  But not this time.  This time it's the East Coast.

As you may know, I've been trying to get back to Nova Scotia for a long time now --  17 years -- but it's never really worked out.

Even though I know half of the media and PR professionals in the province, I've never been able to make things click.

I've often wondered why this was -- and I think it may have been fear.  It's a pretty big chance to take -- just moving back to a place that you've been away from for so long -- hoping to find work and having enough cash to cover the expenses if things don't work out right away.

I've visited Nova Scotia many times over the years and each time that I returned on holiday, familiar feelings would well up inside.  A love of place.  A sense of belonging.  It was as if my former home was calling me back, punctuated by many close friendships that hadn't faded.

I've been to a lot of places, but Nova Scotia -- Halifax, The Valley, Cape Split, Cape Breton -- all of it -- has always had a special pull.  I enjoy it more than any other place on earth.  If I ever had to put down roots and stay still, I know where that place would be.

I often think that this connection is odd.  While I was born in Halifax (a Grace baby), Nova Scotia was never really the place I came from.  I grew up in Manitoba and only lived in Nova Scotia for 6 years as an adult.  But the connection is definitely there and it only seems to grow stronger as the years pass.

Friends in Pugwash, up on the Northumberland shore (warmest waters north of the Carolinas, don't ya know) have made this possible.  While they head to the cottage for the summer, I get their house.  The bonus: I'm centrally located between all the places I want to visit.

My flights are booked (April 22 to Calgary, May 4 to Halifax, Nov 8 to Guatemala City) and everything is in place.  This is going to be a kick-arse summer.

So, on this, Roadspill's 8th birthday, here's a line from the classic tune Farewell To Nova Scotia to sum things up:

"For it's early in the morning I am far, far away."

But I won't be for long.  


Cheers, byes!

Yes, Yes, I know...

... it's been a while since my last post.  Not that I haven't been writing posts.  I've actually started two - I just haven't finished them. I will soon.

I'm still in San Pedro, safe and sound.  I'm working (building blogs/social media) and enjoying the warm weather.

I just noticed that Roadspill will turn 8 next week.  8!  Go figure.

More to come.  Soon.  I promise!

Cheers!!

Back in Mexico

It was my second attempt in as many days to travel to Mexico.  My Guatemalan visa was fast running out, and I was required to leave the country for three days -- and then re-enter -- in order to get a new 90 day visa.

The first attempt failed after the main Central American highway was blocked due to either construction or protests or new electrical transmission lines.  It could have been all three.  And, unfortunately, I didn't learn of the road closure until after I woke up at 4am, took a 6am boat across Lake Atitlan and hopped on the shuttle bus only to be told that we weren't going anywhere.

Take two was yesterday (Feb 25, 2011).  Same routine:  Up at 4.  Boat across the lake.  Hop onto shuttle bus.  And we (I'm travelling with Steve, a fellow San Pedro ex-pat) were off!

The road up to the Mexican border was nice.  Just two years ago re-construction of the PanAmerican highway was nearly completed.  Most of the CA-1 from Guatemala City to the Mexican border at La Mesia is four-lane. Or, at least it was, until last year's heavy rains caused numerous landslides that wiped out much of the work.  However, repairs are ongoing and they've made really good progress.  Just in time for this year's rainy season.

The shuttle from Panajachel, Guatemala to Comitan, Mexico cost $25.  For this you get squished in a tiny seat, stuck between a traveller who has forgotten her brains and one that has forgotten to bathe.  Ah, travel!  The drive to the border is quite beautiful.  Lots of river valleys and mountains to gawk at.

At the border things got crazy.  We had to switch from a Guatemalan shuttle to a Mexican one.   First, though: Guatemalan immigration.  There were a few dozen people trying to get stamped in or out of Guatemala -- and just three guys working behind the desk.  Only one appeared to be doing anything.

That finally done, we walked into Mexico and boarded a new shuttle bus.  The girl that had forgotten her brains still hadn't found them.  She thought it a good idea to stand in the middle of the aisle on the shuttle so no one could get by.  Duh.

Eventually we were headed up the road to Mexican immigration -- about 4 km from the border.  The Mexican office was actually worse than the Guatemalan one: Just one guy was working.  And before you could get an entry stamp you had to fill out a form that you had to get from that one immigration official who was busy examining passports and stamping them.  Why they couldn't leave a pile of forms for people to grab is one of the great mysteries of the ages.  T-I-M:  This Is Mexico.

Back on the shuttle we continued our journey to Comitan.  There were numerous military checkpoints and accidents to keep us entertained.  Then it started to rain.

About an hour later we arrived in Comitan and tried to walk, in the rain, to the hotel.  After getting soaked we  gabbed a taxi (20 pesos/$1.66) to the hotel.  We're staying at the Hotel Eugenia (on Calle. 1 Ne. Pte. 22 -- just a few blocks from the central park).  For 220 pesos ($18) you get a clean, comfortable room with TV and wi-fi.  The shower is amazing:  Tons of pressure and super hot water.

After checking into the hotel we set off to find a bank machine and get even wetter.  That done, we sloshed into a coffee shop on the central park and had some damn fine Joe.  This was followed by a visit to a grocery store which, conveniently, had a restaurant inside.  I dropped about $15 on food that doesn't need to be refrigerated, water and a bottle of wine.  Steve had chicken for dinner ($2) and I had a couple of slices of mediocre pizza ($2).

It was then back to the hotel for a nice long sleep.

And today's adventure?  Walmart.

More to come!

The Suicide Shower Explained

This is one of those times when the picture really does tell the story:

The ubiquitous Lorenzetti ducha

Unlike the comfort addled nations of the so-called developed world, you won't find a lot of hot water heaters in Central America.  Cost is the primary factor -- most families simply can't afford such a luxury.

But most people also like hot showers -- especially travellers -- though, unfortunately, this does not apply to the faux hippies that seem to think that BO somehow increases their Bohemian street cred.

Thankfully, the fine folks at the Lorenzetti ducha company have come  up with an economic solution to this developing-worldwide lack of hot water:  The Suicide Shower.

Quite simply, it is a 110 volt electric heater stuck on the end of a water pipe.  The device automatically turns on when there is water pressure.  Turn the tap, the water flows over the electric heating element and - voila! - hot water!  The temperature of the water is controlled by the amount of water pressure.  You want scalding hot?  Turn it to trickle.  You want tepid?  Turn it the tap 1 millimeter.  Careful!  Turn it too much and you'll be drenched in ice cold water.  Fun!

In my decades-long experience in using Suicide Showers, I've discovered some work better than others (if at all).  But if you get one that works well (like the one pictured above), you'll find yourself relaxing in a sprinkle of warm water and forgetting about the live wires dangling just inches from your head.

A word of warning, however:  There is a switch on the shower head that supposedly regulates the temperature.  Do not touch this -- especially if you are taking a shower.  110 volts coursing through your wet body while standing in water is not a great experience.  Memorable, yes.  But great?  Not so much.

From the "Short and Sweet" Dept.

One of the things I haven't written much about is daily life in San Pedro.  So, in what will become a continuing series, I'll cover some of the day-to-day experiences of living in Guatemala.

A very small part of Lake Atitlan

San Pedro la Laguna is located on Lake Atitlan, one of the most beautiful places on the planet.  The lake is a mountain-top caldera surrounded by volcanos.  Despite San Pedro's elevation - 5,000 feet - it never gets too cold.  About 17,000 people live here and most are of Maya descent.  There are three Maya languages spoken around the lake.  Most indigenous people in San Pedro speak Tz'utujil and Spanish.  There is very little English spoken outside of the ex-pat and tourist communities.  Lake Atitlan itself is located in the southwestern part of the country with the Pacific ocean a few hours away by bus. Volcan San Pedro towers over the town and is, hopefully, dormant.

Weather:  Winter and spring are dry.  It seems it's always sunny.  Cool nights (mid-teens) and warm days (high-20s).  It gets warmer during the day as we get closer to summer. The summer and fall are wet.  The temperatures are warmer, but it rains every afternoon.  Last year it rained so much that there were a number of mudslides around the lake. This time of year is perfect - cool nights, warm days, no rain.  It's like groundhog day.

Banking:  There are two bank machines connected to the outside world.  There is now a third, but it is for local bank customers only.  You can take out 2000 quetzales per transaction.  That's about $250 at the official exchange rate of about $1-Q8.  Money is usually available, but sometimes there is a run on the weekend.  Luckily, I am able to run tabs at most businesses if I run out of cash.

Cost of Living:  I spend about $1000 a month.  That is actually high for living here, but not outrageous.  I am living in a hotel that costs about $190 a month.  The rest goes to eating out 2-3 times a day, a few groceries, coffee, laundry and general entertainment (beer).  If I had a kitchen, I could likely reduce my expenses by 30% if not more.  Last night I spent about Q150 ($18.75) at a local pub.  I was there for many hours using their internet and chewing the fat.  I had 2 imported Guinnesses, a couple of local beers and a plate of nigiri sushi.  My tab also included a 10% propina (tip).

In San Pedro you can eat cheaply (3 for 10Q tacos) or expensively (white table cloth dinner with wine $10). But at the end of the day, nothing is really expensive at all.

More to come...

Torn

Responsibility Looks Like This

Once again I find myself in the middle of a battle that I wish would just go away.  Freedom vs. Responsibility.

You may be aware of my long term life plan: To travel/live in the tropics during the Canadian winter and return home to enjoy the first half of summer in BC and the dog days (plus fall) in Nova Scotia.  Surprisingly, I'm on the road to doing just that.

But:  I still have a bit of a yoke around my neck in the form of debt.  This is no one's fault but my own.  It comes from trying to live the dream before having the financial base to make it easy.  But things are changing. I am now working as a digital nomad, making decent money.  There is now light at the end of the tunnel.

Over the last few months, everything has been going swell.  I'm in a comfortable, clean and reasonably quiet $6-a-night hotel.  I'm busy.  I'm earning.  I'm paying off debt.  Every day is sunny and warm.  Perfect!

Then opportunity knocks:  How would I like to spend the month of April in a Manhattan apartment for the low cost of $50 a night.  Would I?!

Then opportunity knocks again:  How would I like to spend eight weeks housesitting in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia.  A seaside residence, complete with car.  Would I?!

My initial reaction to both offers was "Hell ya!"  I can use my freedom to live anywhere.  And those two anywheres sound perfectly perfect.

I jump on the internet in search of cheap airfares and/or points flights to make the dreams happen.  In moments I realize that there are none.  I ponder further and suddenly I see these opportunities come with price tags.  And they're not cheap.  Deflated, I decide that I can't take advantage of either of these opportunities.  At least, not yet.  Once there is no debt, there will be true freedom.  It's not far off, but it won't happen next week either.  The universe is delivering -- just a wee bit too early. 

Sober second thought allows me to see that these opportunities aren't perfect.  New York would be great, but expensive.  The good thing is that it isn't going anywhere.  And I'll be able to stay there again in the not-too-distant future.

As for Lunenburg:  While I desperately want to return to the sea-bound coast, I must be patient.  Nova Scotia's charms will wait.  Plus:  Do I really want to return at the end of February?  No.  I want to return in August.

A trip to my home and native land will happen.  I have to renew my passport and deal with my taxes.  I've also got my fingers crossed for a Gulf Islands (BC) housesit in July and August.  

So here I am, being responsible.  I've decided that it's better to live in a cheap tropical paradise than return to the cold.  There could be worse things.

Now the plan is this: I'll stay in Guatemala, likely until late April and then head north to Calgary.  If I'm lucky, I'll head to the west coast for a few months, then to the east coast for a few months, then hit the road again for the winter.  Not a bad rough plan.  I think I like being responsible.

PS: Know of someone seeking a housesitter in the Vancouver area this summer?  Or Nova Scotia?  Or both?  Let me know!

18 Ways to Circumvent the Egyptians Government's Internet Block

PASS ALONG:

18 Ways to Circumvent the Egyptians Government's Internet Block

By: @AnonymousRx @Warintel

01] Nour DSL is still working in Egypt, Dial up with 0777 7776 or 07777 666

02] IP addresses for social media: pass on to people in #Egypt: Twitter:
128.242.240.52. Facebook: 69.63.189.34

03] How to circumvent the communications blackout in #Egypt
http://slink.us?lr Arabic

04] #hamradio frequencies for #egypt http://slink.us?ls PLEASE SPREAD IRC:
http://slink.us?lt

05] Ham Radio Software software for PC, Mac and Linux
http://www.hamsphere.com Communicate w/ #egypt

06] TOR Bridge 189.129.67.78:443 04FD6AE46E95F1E46B5264528C48EA84DB10CAC4

07] There is an Old DSL Dialup 24564600

08] Send SMS reports to +1 949 209 7559 and they will retweet for you.
Please spread to those in #Egypt on battlefield

09] #Egypt hams are on 7.050-7.200 MHz LSB

10] Egypt Gov only blocking by DNS. So for Twitter try 128.242.245.148
Facebook 69.63.189.11 Proxy

11] VPN Server http://texnomic.com/url/2L is now stable and open for FREE to
ALL

12] Help the Egypt Revolutionaries by overcoming the Firewall
https://www.accessnow.org/proxy-cloud

13] 0m band, 7.050-7.20­0 MHz LSB, 318.5 degrees (northwest­/north from
cairo) Ham Radio Operators

14] We are now providing dialup modem service at +46850009990. user/pass:
telecomix/telecomix (only for #egypt, respect that PLEASE!).

15] People of Egypt ONLY! Use this dial-up provided by friends in France to
go online: +33172890150 (login 'toto' password 'toto')

16] FREE VPN Server to bypass ANY Blockage on ANY ADSL or Cell Network.
Domain: Cloud.Texnomic.com User: FreeEgypt Pass: #Jan25

17] Third party apps: Tweetdeck http://www.tweetdeck.com/ & Hootsuite
http://hootsuite.com/ still work for updating Twitter

18] Follow @AnonymousRx

We are anonymous
We are legion
We do not forgive
We do not forget
Expect us

Please help support #OpEgypt and join anonymous in IRC chat, you can use a
secure web version of IRC called Mibbit @ http://slink.us?ll

Ask what you can do to help when in the chat channel, anonymous members are
always willing to help out new members!

- @AnonymousRx