Greetings from the magical paradise that is Tofino. It is also apparently the place where summer winters. But let’s go back 24 hours.
After fending off "the beast" I awoke with much anticipation Friday morning. The plan was to zip over to Kitsilano to meet Leanne, transfer the stuff from my car to our rental van, and hit the road, Jack.
My car has been undergoing various breakdowns - like the heater. And, as it dropped to below 0C overnight, I had a frost-covered window. The handy hint solution: pour warm water on it and drive like a bat out of hell to Leanne's before it froze up again. It worked.
And then there's the muffler, or lack thereof. But that's a whole other story.
Things went smoothly once I got to Leanne's. We loaded our stuff and her dog Katie and we were off. We were aiming for the 10:30am ferry to Nanaimo, which we caught with plenty of time to spare. The boat was half-empty, so there were plenty of places to flop out. It was sunny and bright, although cold – meaning the outside deck photo safaris were brief. Images to come on flickr (see link, right – near the DONATE button [hint hint]).
The traffic was light and we made good time. The weather was/is incredible. Sunny, warm, amazing.
A quick pee stop at Cathedral Grove [ movie to come ] to well, pee, and look at big trees. Then back in the minivan and up and over the snowy mountains to the far west coast of this great land.
Another stop revealed outside temperatures of 16C. Hard to believe it's February, a common theme.
By the time we listened to the weather report on Pacific Rim National Park Radio, in French, we were at the office our home for the next few nights – the Crystal Cove Resort.
Our 2-level stand-alone log cabin is dandy. Full kitchen, and on the second level, an elevated walkway to an elevated hot tub. Three other cabins share it, but they appear to be vacant.
The price is in the $100/night range. Which, considering the location – a short walk to the beach – is perfect.
As it turns out, my pal and business partner, Randy, is staying next door at the Ocean View Cabins. He's been here for a week of chilling.
Leanne, Katie and I hit the beach, which is this massive expanse of sand (at low tide). The air was warm, skies blue, and people friendly.
I wandered over to say hi to Randy, then after a picture perfect sunset, the three of us headed into town. First stop, Sobo.
This is a new restaurant that used to be nothing more than a catering wagon. But the food, offered up by Artie and Lisa Ahier is legendary. And, from the "It's a small world but I wouldn't want to mow it" category, it turns out that Artie and a buddy of mine from Halifax went to Uni together. Of course, I knew this in advance.
It is only recently that the restaurant opened, but Randy, Leanne and I were disappointed to find it shuttered. It will be today's lunch destination.
After Sobo, we discovered that Tofino on a February Friday night is somewhat dead. Pulling into the Liquor Store, it appeared that it was closed (about 8pm). But, no, there just were no customers.
Inside, two wacky BC Liquor employees joked with us, and even up sold me on some local beer. The outlet also stocks Innis and Gunn Scottish Ale, which is (because it is aged in former Scotch casks) is one of the best beers I've ever had. I bought 6.
Our growly stomachs reminded us of our dropping blood sugar levels. Leanne had heard good things about a place that was once the Crab Shack, now renamed (and upscaled) "Shelter."
It is a beautiful 2-storey restaurant with a comfortable ambience. Lots of dark wood, low light, and candles. Great attentive service. And a lot of nos.
The first no: no crab. CURSES! The explanation is that it is very hard to predict crab demand, so they err on the side of caution. Crab must be made fresh, and if they don't move it, they're stuck with product. I'm assuming the crab would be dead at that point. But… who knows.
The table beside us feasted on the last crab. Bastards!
So we ordered other items. I went with the fresh salmon and a chevre (which I cannot seem to pronounce) salad.
We ordered our drinks. Randy ordered a Campari and soda. This is the first time I have ever seen anyone order that. I ordered a local espresso stout. Leanne, wine.
The waitress headed off, and returned with Leanne's wine and two apologies. No Campari. No espresso stout.
But good news: She instructed someone to run over to the Liquor Store we had just been at to get some Campari and stout. In about 10 minutes, our alcohol needs were met.
Dinner arrived, and the verdict from all three eaters was two thumbs way, way up. Outstanding food. Filling. Tasty. Great presentation. But, it is not cheap. Our bill: $170. The mains were in the $30 range. But definitely worth it. It will be the last expensive meal, however.
A colleague from CTV is shooting a low-budget adventure travel show here as well, and after a phone call after we left, it turns out they were in Shelter at the same time. Must have been the low light.
The rich food and long drive made us sleepy. So we went our separate ways…
Saturday morning began at 6:30am with Katie demanding a pee and a walk. Since she's Leanne's dog, I stayed in the cosy confines of the bed.
It's still early as I write this, and the agenda is loose. Into Tofino to do some more LP research… and find a place to upload this. There is wireless internet at the resort, however, it must only be in the office area, as I have no connectivity. A minor detail.
More to come!
Cheers!
