from the "home sweet home" dept.

Sunday, January 21, 2007
Takoradi, Ghana

So much has happened in such a short period of time that this is going to be a long entry!

On Friday, Ato, JHR's country director, drove me from Accra, Ghana's capital, to Takoradi. At this time of year the air is thick with smog and haze. Much of this can be blamed on winds that bring dust down from the Sahara desert. I'm told this will change soon and I look forward to clearer days.

The drive was uneventful. The main road to Takoradi (a few hundred km west of Accra) is in decent condition and we made the journey in less than four hours. Ato and I talked at length about my new job and life in Ghana.

I still find it hard to believe I am living in Africa. This, I think, is because much of what I am experiencing reminds me of Belize. The terrain, the people, and the flora and fauna -- at least on the surface. I know as I peel back the layers I will discover much, much more.

I'm glad that I've spent so much time in Belize. Those experiences have prepared me well. There is no question that I am a minority here -- in fact, when Ato and I stopped in to visit his mother in Sekondi (effectively Takoradi's twin), he warned me that all eyes would be on me. And that they were! It was an odd feeling.

Once in Takoradi we did a quick drive about town. It is much smaller than Accra, but there are places that are just as hectic. It is also larger than I expected. It'll take some time to get used to things. Ah, learning!

Ato drove me to SKYY House, my new place of employment. We were met by Kweku Temeng. Kweku is not only a journalist at SKYY, he is my new roommate.

Although it was Saturday, there was a lot of activity at SKYY. SKYY broadcasts four television channels (three are pan-African satellite channels) as well as on FM. They also publish a newspaper.

I met many of the people I'll be working with -- which was quite overwhelming. So many names and faces to remember!! However, everyone was incredibly friendly and made me feel very welcome.

My first day of work is Monday (Jan 21) for a meet and greet. My plan is to spend the week getting my life set up in Takoradi and hanging out in the newsroom. The following week is likely to be more intense.

Kweku works long days -- and often seven days a week. It's expected that I do the same, though I will push to at least have occasional weekends off if I am working 12+ hour days. However if there are important stories on the weekend, then I will certainly jump in.

After visiting SKYY, Kweku took Ato and me to my new home. It's located near SKYY at the end of a dirt road. Kweku tells me it takes about 15 minutes to walk to work. Hurray! Exercise!!!

We're on the outskirts of Takoradi and I'll have to depend on Tro-Tros (mini-buses similar to Guatemala's collectivos) and taxis to get to town -- although I am considering the purchase of a scooter or motorbike. I should have brought my mountain bike! Heh!

Kweku found a great spot for us to live. It's a large house in a relatively quiet area free of the barking street dogs and loud stereos that plague urban Belize.

However, there are several mosques in town, and this morning I was brought out of a deep sleep by the call to prayer. I'm sure I'll get use to that...

The family that owns the house live upstairs and we have the entire downstairs. There are three bedrooms -- one for Kweku, one for me, and one for our "helper." We have a young woman living with us (and her two boys). In exchange for free rent, she cleans, cooks and does laundry.

Kweku explains that as journalists, we're far to busy too waste time on such things. I tell him that only very wealthy people in Canada have such live-in assistance.
Regardless, it's a nice touch!

Our space includes a common area/dining room plus a fully kitted out kitchen. My room is quite large and came complete with a king size bed. Somehow I ended up forgetting my bed linens in Canada, so I have been using a sarong as a sheet. However, it's so warm at night that it isn't a problem.

Kweku is moving in more furniture in over the next few days -- so we should have a rather comfy home. There is a lot of furniture manufacturing in the area, so the prices are affordable.

In Ghana, you pay rent in advance. Once it's paid, you need not think about it again.

Here's the amazing thing: my portion of rent for the next eight months? 8,000,000 Cedis. How much is that? About $800 US. Nice!!! And it looks like we'll be getting dial-up internet access too. While not perfect, it certainly will be handy!

I also had the chance on Saturday to visit a local school with Kweku and Ato. A group of children from the school are heading to Plymouth, England in July to perform. I was an honoured guest at the rehearsal -- and completely blown away by the traditional singing and drumming. It was at that moment that I really felt I was Africa and is something I will never forget.

I hope to attend further rehearsals and will record pictures and sound. I've been keeping a low profile with the camera, as I don't want to appear to be a typical tourist. This is my home, and there will be lots of time to shoot stills and video.

Since coming to Ghana I've often mentioned Belize while trying to describe my impressions. Last night, everything came full circle.

I was lying in bed, preparing for my first sleep in Takoradi. I dialed up BBC World Service on my shortwave radio... and after listening to the 10 p.m. news bulletin, there was a program about world music.

The focus of the show was music from... BELIZE. Imagine my surprise when they interviewed my friend Ivan Duran (the force behind Belize's Stonetree Records) at length. They also played Paranda, Andy Palacio, and much more. [BRENT: Pass this on to Ivan and Katia].

Despite the 5 a.m. call to prayer, I managed to get a good night sleep, rising about 9 a.m.
I've spent the morning drinking coffee (terrible Nescafe -- though I am seeking good coffee later today), unpacking, writing, and listening to local music on the radio. Ghanaian music is very popular. You hear much more local music than imported Amer-o-pop. It's wonderful to switch on the radio to hear all this amazing West African music.

So far, the experience has been great. Nothing negative to report and no sickness from eating local food (which is wonderful, spicy but carb-laden). I'm still being careful with water, but plan to start boiling it rather than buying it.

The folks at JHR call the first few weeks after arrival the "honeymoon" stage. I hope it lasts. I know there will be challenges ahead, but so far, I am having the experience of a lifetime. I have absolutely no regrets about coming here and look forward to what is to come.

That's about it for now. I'm hoping to upload this text today at the internet cafe. I'm saving it to a USB drive rather than taking my laptop to the cafe. Hopefully it works.

It's great hearing from everyone at home... please keep the notes and comments coming.

Until the next time,

Cheers!!